I don’t know about you, but I love my fireplace. Even my dog loves to cuddle up near it. Fireplaces are terrific for relaxing while reading a good book and create a nice warm ambiance in a home. The crackling of the wood and flickering of light that is created, makes a home feel that much more inviting.

They can be dangerous if not maintained properly and regularly. Many fires are caused by creosote build-up in chimneys. You should have your chimney checked and cleaned yearly. DON’T WAIT UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE. Chimney sweeps are hard to get in the fall. By this time they are booked up and very busy. Have your chimney cleaned now, before you find yourself looking at your fireplace wishing you could use it.

Safe Fireplaces:

  1. Fireplaces should have a hearth. The hearth in front of the fireplace should extend a minimal depth of 16 inches into the room and no less than 8 inches beyond, on either side of the fireplace cavity.

Some are raised and some are even with the flooring. Brick, bluestone, tile, granite, concrete or other non-flammable material must be utilized with a nominal thickness of 4”.

  1. A modified fireplace is a firebox inserted into an existing fireplace. If this type of box is to be used, select one with a 1/4-inch steel liner to reduce the potential for rust.
  2. Free-standing fireplaces should be 3 feet from unprotected walls, or other flammable materials. Unless the unit is a zero clearance unit, where the installation should be installed as per the manufacturers instructions. Use wall protection to protect walls within the proximity of 3 feet.
  3. A fire-proof base to support a free-standing unit or an insulated fireproof material on the floor beneath the fireplace is required on all self supported units.

Fireplace Flues and Chimneys:

  1. Be sure the flue is adequate in size. The flue should be equal to at least 1/10 the area of the fireplace opening for chimneys that are 15 feet or higher. And, at least 1/8 the area of the fireplace opening for chimneys less than 15 feet in height.
  2. Confirm that the contractor installs the flue at least 3 feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof and at least 2 feet higher than any portion of the building within 10 feet. If the roof is flat, the chimney should be at least 3 feet above the roof.
  3. Metal flashing is necessary to protect areas where the flue goes through the roof. These are used to prevent water from entering between the flue and the roof.  They should be checked annually and either replaced or repaired as necessary.
  4. Pipes or flues that connect free-standing stoves and fireplaces to a chimney are at least 24 gauge steel, double walled and UL listed and installed accordingly.
  5. Install a metal spark arrester on top of the chimney. These help to prevent any sparks that are generated from landing on the roof and burning through and catching the roof on fire.
  6. A masonry fireplace and chimney should be supported on its own foundation wall and footing.
  7. Installing a bird and animal guard on the chimney can prevent squirrels, birds and raccoons from nesting and clogging the flue.

Be sure prefabricated metal fireplaces, chimneys and flues are approved by the Underwriters’ Laboratories (UL) and installed as specified by the instructions. No pipe should be longer than 10 feet nor more than 75% of the vertical height of the chimney, whichever is less.

If you choose a natural gas “log,” follow instructions for installation and use. Look for the American Gas Association label.

Maintain Your Fireplace:

Fireplaces are not maintenance free and have to be cared for like any other part of your home. Although they look substantial and strong, like anything else in your home, they can deteriorate with time if not inspected and properly cared for.

  1. Keep your fireplace in good condition by repairing or replacing any cracks in the flue lining, cracked or loose bricks and repairing or re-pointing the mortar joints. After time deterioration does occur and cracks in the masonry can become a serious fire hazard.
  2. Have a professional mason inspect the interior of your masonry flue once every two years or so and make the needed repairs.
  3. There are many fireplace companies that will inspect or suggest someone that is qualified to inspect your fireplace and flue for you.
  4. Inspect the fireplace and chimney at least once a year to prevent creosote buildup. Depending on how often you use it, have a professional chimney sweep check your flue every year.
  5. Occasionally dampers also need to be cleaned, repaired or replaced. These dampers are located just above the firebox. They are used to stop the warm air in your home from escaping and regulate the amount draft going up the flue (although I don’t know of any instance that it has been used for draft regulation). Using a flashlight, you can easily see if it is off the pivots or if it is moving freely, easily and is not sticking. Dampers should be brushed occasionally and checked for rust.
  6. Many times I have seen chimneys that have fallen into disrepair because of water freezing and expanding between the bricks causing them to break apart and weaken. Chimney sweeps often have a solution to apply on the surface of stable masonry to protect this from happening.

For A Safe and Sound Operation:

  1. Install a screen that completely covers the fireplace opening to keep sparks from flying out.
  2. Use only enough fuel to keep the fire at the desired temperature. Avoid “roaring” fires. They can start chimney fires from creosote deposits in the flue and become uncontrollable.
  3. Equip the house with fire-warning devices. This is a standard building code requirement.
  4. Establish a type ABC fire extinguisher near the fireplace.
  5. Keep combustible materials such as carpets, furniture, paper, logs and kindling at least 3 feet away from the fireplace.
  6. Arrange andirons so logs can’t roll out.
  7. Do not use gasoline or other flammable liquids to kindle or rekindle a fire. These flammable vapors can explode. Never use fuels near a fire. Explosive vapors can travel the length of an entire room.
  8. Always check to see if the damper is open prior to kindling a fire.
  9. Never burn Christmas tree greens or needles. They cause many sparks when burning which can fly out of the fireplace onto something in the room.
  10. Preheat the flue (that is when the flue is warmed to establish a positive draft). This will prevent any smoke from backing into the room.
  11. Do not use coal, charcoal or any other substance that is not meant to be used in a fireplace or stove, unless the fireplace is designed to handle the excess heat and smoke which occurs when burning these materials.
  12. Be sure that all ashes have thoroughly cooled before you dispose of them. Put ashes in a lidded metal container to prevent a possible fire and provide a sturdy place to store them. Ashes make good fertilizer in gardens, flowerbeds, etc.
  13. Be sure the fire is out completely before going to bed.

Air Supply

A fireplace fire requires about 5 times as much air as most houses need for liberal ventilation. With today’s tightly-constructed houses incorporating weather-stripped doors, caulked windows and self-closing exhaust vents, a fireplace can set up reverse draft by drawing the and poisonous carbon monoxide fumes back down from the hot water heater and furnace flues and discharge them into the living area.

In tight homes, the fireplace may also consume enough oxygen from the air in the house to cause problems to occupants. To be safe, a positive source of outside air should be supplied to all fireplaces and wood-or-coal burning stoves to bring in enough fresh air for efficient burning. This can be provided by opening a window when the fireplace or stove is being used. To keep smoke from entering the room, turn off kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans and close the registers of forced air heating systems which are near the fireplace.

Storing Your Firewood

Make it a point to store any firewood at least 10 feet away from your home and keep the firewood off the ground by at least 6 inches. This will help to keep any wood eating insects (termites, carpenter ants, etc.) from easily infiltrating your home and firewood. When storing the wood, keep the bark sides facing up. This helps to protect the firewood from the rain.

Keep children away from the fire. Their clothing can easily ignite. Warn everyone in your family about this hazard, especially before a gathering when our minds are not focused on the fire and we may be in another room preparing or entertaining.

The holidays and fireplaces go hand-in-hand and help to create a festive warm atmosphere in any home. They are used most during this time of year so be aware, be safe, and enjoy.

Dear Hector,

I have read your articles on several occasions and have found them to be very informative. One particular article stood out regarding the environment in the home. I have been home with a six-week-old baby girl and a five-year-old boy. I am concerned with maintaining a healthy environment and eliminating anything that they can possibly be exposed to inside our home. Both my husband and I want to ensure that we eliminate the possibility of exposure to toxins in our home.

We live in a home that was built in the 1920’s. I have noticed that in the past few years we have been getting sick a lot easier than before. Any suggestions or comments will be much appreciated.

Sincerely,

J. H.

Dear J. H.

Every morning we tune in the news to see what the weather will be like. Well, what if we took the same time to evaluate the environment inside our home. We spend approximately 90% of our lives indoors, and the majority of it in our home. We are either at work, which for many of us is indoors, or at home.

Family members that spend most of their time in the home are women, children and the elderly. They are at a higher risk of exposure to the environment inside the home.

In the summer the windows get closed and locked and the air conditioning gets turned on. In the colder months, we again seal our windows and homes so that heat does not escape. We trap the irritants like, pollutants, pollen and other allergens in the home.

Humidity is another problem we face in our home. Although it can be a good thing, too much is not. Humidity facilitates mold spores to develop. So, the possibility that we can have mold in the kitchen, bathroom, basement, and attic…is there.

Further affecting us, is a more dangerous exterior pollutant that can enter certain homes through cracks and deficiencies in our concrete slab and foundation. This is commonly known as Radon. Radon is a potentially dangerous gas that has been linked to numerous cases of cancer. You would never know it was there…until it is too late. A simple test can tell you whether your home contains it and at what levels.

There is a common dynamic between people that suffer from exposure to pollutants in their home. This is, in most cases, that the individual’s symptoms begin to subside after being away from their residence for several hours and recur after reentering their home.

The need for an environmentally safe home shouldn’t be taken lightly. In my home, within the last few years I have noticed that my family has gotten sick more often and in speaking with others, I am finding out that many families are experiencing the same affects.

These situations need to be monitored by the homeowner. An individual profile of each person in the household should be maintained. The outline should include:

  • The age of each person living in the home.
  • The amount of time spent in the home.
  • Known causes to which a subject is or may be allergic to.
  • The level of reactions to a possible allergen…mild, moderate or serious.
  • Possible sources of the problem…Like the location or has the home been treated for something lately, i.e.: lawn, carpet cleaning, extermination, or dampness.
  • Does the individual begin to clear up or feel better when away from the home for a period of time?

Make it as simple and easy as you can. Hang a clipboard where it will be easy to access and not be forgotten. If you think of any other questions that may help to determine the cause, add it to the list.

Your senses play a major role in identifying possible areas of concern:

  • Do you see any mold in dark damp locations?
  • Do you see any water stains, droppings and charred areas in the attic or basement that may have not been eliminated by the previous owner?
  • Can you smell any chemical odors i.e.: paint, smoke, dampness, tobacco, burned materials, fireplace?

The concern over energy conservation has lead homes to be built more constricted. While this is good for fuel and energy conservation it allows for minimal movement of air, thus, allowing for dampness in the home to nurture mold spores. Some areas of potential concern and signs associated with mold, gases and chemicals are:

Mold

  • Basement – a black, white and multi color discolorations on walls, floors, and carpets. A musty odor is usually apparent, as well.
  • Attics – moisture and animal droppings.
  • Windows – decomposing wood, peeling and condensation.
  • Carpets – a collection of moisture can result in the growth of mold spores.
  • Sump pits and floor drains – are areas of mold growth.
  • Humidifier trays, air conditioners and furnaces – are likely places for dust, which provides an environment for mold.
  • Furniture – waterbeds, kitchen and vanity cabinets are places that water can leak and cultivate mold.

Invisible and visible gasses

  • Improperly vented areas of concern – fireplaces, furnaces, hot water heaters, wood and coal burning stoves.

It is important to note that carbon monoxide gas from your furnace and hot water heater can potentially be fatal, if they are not detectable without a functioning carbon monoxide detector. I suggest a minimum of two detectors. Place one by your furnace, and the other near your bedrooms.

Chemical Pollutants

  • Carpet – chemical smells in new carpets and dust mites are typical problems.
  • Insulation – both loose and fiber insulation can emit particles that can be harmful to inhale and cause rashes to occur.
  • Particle Board – glue used in the fabrication of particleboard, paneling and plywood can emit formaldehyde gases.
  • Asbestos – disturbed particles can be inhaled causing a dangerous and fatal lung risk.
  • Lead-based paints – lead dust is another very dangerous and even lethal hazard. Lead dust is most common while construction is ongoing or after the work is complete.
  • Cleaning products – Many cleaning products contain chemicals that can affect your breathing and have a negative reaction if contact is made with skin or if inhaled. Should skin irritation or a lightheaded feeling occur, you may want to seek immediate medical care.
  • Clothes – smoke from tobacco, dry cleaning chemicals and detergents are other irritants that can affect your environment.

Being aware and taking action is primary for ridding your home of environmental hazards. You are so right stating that, “maintaining good air quality indoors is ideal for fostering a healthy atmosphere in your home”. So if this condition continues or if you want to be certain of the condition in your home, have an environmental engineer assess the situation in your home. It may be the best money you’ll ever spend.

Where Does All the Heat Go?

December 1, 2009

Almost all homes allow air to infiltrate one way or another by means of penetrations in the homes envelope, which are necessary to provide certain utilities access, and ventilation into and out of a home. Although these are unavoidable, it should be minimized and controlled to maximize the efficiency of other items in our home, such as energy efficient windows, heating and cooling units, etc., and to increase and maintain our health and comfort.

The best time to properly seal your home is when it is under construction. Many places in your home are susceptible to air infiltration. Unfortunately, local building codes require minimal standards to be met. And, although the local towns have their building inspector check for insulation during construction, heavy work loads, often do not afford them the time to perform in-depth energy inspections. Furthermore, keep in mind that the standards that building departments maintain are the legal minimum required by code. Maintaining an enhanced standard is left up to the homeowner and their contractor.

Cold air easily enters a home during cold weather due to the difference in temperatures, air pressure and wind. If this remains uncontrolled it can cost you a bundle in utility bills. Hence, there are ways to help control these situations.

Areas where air infiltration can be a problem are:

    1. On the average, garage doors are not tightly sealed and allow for air to enter easily from the top, bottom and sides. Applying weatherseal around the doors can help to lessen the cold air from entering. Having a professional do this may be wiser, since the door may need a slight adjustment to close properly, afterward.
    1. Many garages are located beneath the home or under the 2nd level. This layout is common in many homes. Adequately sized insulation should be installed between the floor joists above the garage.  The drywall on the garage ceiling should be properly seamed to not allow any drafts from penetrating.
    1. Dryer vents easily allow cold air to enter a home. Make sure to check that there are flaps on the outside of the dryer duct. Missing flaps will constantly let in a cold draft when the dryer is off.
    1. Wherever there is a utility, a plumbing line, an electrical outlet or wire, a duct line or any other item that enters the home from the outside, make sure they are sealed. These are areas where there is the likelihood that cold air can enter your home and should be caulked or sealed.
    1. A fireplace is another place that warm air can quickly and easily escape from your home. Check the damper to make sure it is securely closed, when it is not in use. If it does not sit properly on its frame, try to adjust it, or have it replaced, if necessary.
    1. Windows and doors are notorious for allowing cold air into your home. If the windows are new and you have cold air infiltrating your home, call the builder. It can be something simple that may need adjustment or it can be a defect in the window that is covered by the builders warranty and/or the manufacturer’s warranty.
    1. Outlets and recessed light fixtures inside your home are some other areas that can be a source for drafts.
    1. Attic hatches and attic stairs are areas that, in most homes, are not sealed in any way, letting warm air escape over 90% of the time.

Warm air leakage can account for up to 40% of your energy usage. This also affects the efficiency of other products in your home, as well. For example, the affect of an energy efficient window is reduced when energy efficiency in other areas of the home are not maintained.

While having fresh air in your home is important for your health, insufficient air circulation can also affect your health. Ailments such as respiratory troubles, lethargy and frequent headaches are common in households that do not have proper air circulating throughout their homes.

You may also want to have a plumber or heating and ventilation contractor perform an assessment on your home to see the amount of heat loss that may be occurring due to the large windows you have in your home. Good Luck.

If you are serious about selling your home, by doing it right the first time you can save yourself a lot of time and aggravation. You never get a second chance to make a first impression to a potential home buyer. So take this information to heart.

We have all seen the FOR SALE signs posted all over the place. It seems like sellers are scrambling to get their homes sold before interest rates get any higher, relocate to a better job market, or worse, sell before they go into foreclosure. In a saturated market the pickings are many for buyers on the prowl.

Make Your Home As Appealing As Possible

Make sure your home is alluring to prospective buyers. Ask your real estate agent what some of the other successful sellers have done to make their homes more eye-catching and interesting. Picture in your mind what you would like to see if you were looking to purchase a home.

It Only Takes A Few Bucks

It’s amazing what a few dollars can do to make a place engaging and appealing to anyone looking to for a home. In fact, sometimes the beauty of a home can override the basics requirements that a person is looking for in their search for a home. Plain and simply put, the place needs to have what the buyer wants or show potential for the future.

Not Everyone Has a Good Imagination

A few years back my business partner and I built a house on an acre of property in Wyckoff, New Jersey. I went to several dollar stores and was able to purchase table settings, mantel decorations, picture frames and a few kitchen knick knacks that made a tremendous difference in the look of the home. So, rather than the potential buyers walking into an empty home, it helped them to imagine what they could do with it. My associate was amazed how far just a few dollars went to make this home look the way it did.

When I look at a home and there are things strewn all over the place, no matter how beautiful the layout may be it takes away from the appeal of what it truly looks like. Home buyers find it a lot easier to see what the inside of a home looks like without clutter instead of having to imagine it.

First and Foremost: Get Organized

Donna Smallin, an author and strategist on getting things done and un-cluttering your home, says, “As soon as you decide to sell your home, start packing. You want buyers to fall in love with your home, not your stuff.”  Smallin also recommends packing and moving only those things you love and use and donating the rest. If you are in need of uncluttering help, I suggest visiting her website at www.unclutter.com or going to your nearest Barnes and Noble store and picking up one of her books. She makes getting organized simple and easy to do.

When you are in the process of selling your home, buying another, looking for financing, packing and throwing things out; things can get way out of hand and quite stressful. Following some simple strategic ways of getting your life organized can go a long way and keep your home from staying on the market, no longer than necessary.

Can the Outside of Your Home Use a Little TLC

Clutter eats up the equity inside your home and curb appeal eats it up outside. Make sure the grass is cut and invest a couple of dollars on a few inexpensive plantings for outside the entrance of your home. Fresh mulch and edging can also go a long way in dressing up your home’s exterior.

Look for areas that might benefit from a little touch up paint that certainly. If the entire house needs new paint or siding you may want to use that as a negotiating tool if someone is interested in the home but is reluctant to purchase.

I little imagination and elbow grease have always worked in the past so why try and reinvent the wheel. Good luck!

Dear Hector,

I recently needed to call a plumber to find out where water in my Kitchen ceiling was coming from. There isn’t a roof above so it was difficult for me to figure where it was coming from.

The plumbing contractor checked everywhere only to find that the toilet bowl wax ring was faulty and that the bowl wasn’t sitting right. It leaked water every time someone flushed which was one of the reasons we couldn’t find the leak. Our contractor indicated that this must have been going on for some time; do to the extent of the damage to the floor.

This problem cost us dearly and was something we could have definitely done without. Have you previously written any articles with suggestions or hints for preventing this or similar problems from happening that we may be able to get?

Sincerely,

R. M.

Dear R. M.,

I’ll look into getting you some past articles on the subject, but in the interim here are some precautions and preventative maintenance tips that may help you disarm any potential tsunamis in your home.

After the holiday hoopla is over and the cold weather stops you from wanting to venture outside, it is much easier to redirect your focus to the inside of your home for a little preventative maintenance. A leak in your bathroom or kitchen could cause hundreds or even thousands of dollars in damage if not taken care of immediately.

Always be on alert for warnings signs of a possible leak. Follow these guidelines and check for signals that will keep your kitchen and bathroom in check and free of any leaks.

  1. 1. Fix and Change Worn Parts

Damaged parts are a major cause of leaks and wasted water in a bathroom or kitchen. Look over the following parts regularly, and repair or replace them if they are worn.

  • Inspect the washers in the shower head- Check for water dripping or spraying out from the threaded area of the head.
  • Tub diverters can waste a lot of water. If it is leaking into the tub, it may be time to replace it with a new one.
  • Toilet tanks – Check for leaks between the tank and bowl. If there’s water leaking, tighten the bolts that hold the two together, being careful not to tighten them too much. Also, make sure there is no water leaking between the bowl and floor. You can usually tell this by a wet spot on the floor around the bowl and/or a dark mildew on the floor around the bottom of the bowl usually in the grouted tile joints.
  • Toilet flapper valve – A faulty flapper can waste hundreds of gallons of water. Flappers are simple to replace and can be purchased at your local home improvement store or plumbing supply. Make sure to turn the water supply off and remove the flapper. Put it in a plastic bag and take it with you to match up its’ shape with a new one.
  • Rotted washers and bolts around toilet tanks and an insufficient wax seal can result in a rotted floor. This can go unnoticed for a longtime until one day the floor begins to look a little crooked or uneven. Don’t let this go without further inspection. It’s time to call a professional.
  • Faucet washers – can result in a high water bill and can also ruin and de-laminate mica counter and vanity tops if they go unnoticed. Replacing countertops can run well into a few thousand dollars.
  • Check for leaks at supply lines to toilet bowls, sinks, dishwashers, hot water dispensers and refrigerators. Supply line valves may not be used for some time and once there’re turned, a seal can be broken and a leak begins.
  • Check for sediment build-up in faucets and showerheads. These can stifle water pressure. Periodically remove the strainers on you faucets and remove any sediment that may be collecting. In most cases this will drastically improve your water pressure. In areas with hard-water it may be necessary to do this more frequently.
  1. 2. Inspect the Caulking and Grouting

Caulking is very important in preventing a leak and keeping water from infiltrating vulnerable places. Caulking should be somewhat flexible, and not be cracked or blackened with mildew—if it is, don’t just use any caulk, replace it with a tub and tile type silicone based waterproof caulking.

Check the following areas for cracked or missed caulking in need of repair.

  • Around the bottom of the toilet
  • Along wall at the edge of the tub or shower
  • At the inside corners of the tub or shower
  • Between the countertop and backsplash
  • Where the tub meets the shower
  • At the base of the tub or shower along the floor
  • Where the shower door meets the wall and tub or shower base.
  1. 3. Knowing When to Call in the Professionals

There are some things that need to be fixed by professionals in order to avoid future or even more damage. Call a plumber if you find the following problems and feel as though you are in over your head,

  • Leaky or stuck water supply lines and valves
  • Leaking shower heads, or other leaks that you can’t fix
  • Leaks present in the shower pan
  • Trouble with mold or mildew on the walls.

Once you can get into a routine of doing these things on a regular or seasonal basis it becomes a lot easier to handle and will allow you time for other home fixes.

There are several things you can do in your home to stay warm and cut back on your heating bills. Making some minor repairs and a few simple adjustments can save you quite a bit of money on your heating and cooling bills. So let’s get started!

1.       Replace the Glass – Reduce the amount of draft coming through your windows by replacing any cracked or broken panes.

2.       Doors – Repair or replace the weather stripping wherever you feel cool air coming through the perimeter of an exterior door opening.

3.       Outlets and Switches – Purchase and Install outlet and switch insulators, also called gaskets, between the cover plates and the boxes. Doing this will help to minimize the draft in wall cavities.

4.       Exterior Penetrations – Check the outside perimeter walls of your home and seal penetrations that may have been old or improperly sealed.

5. Drapes - Installing drapes over poorly insulated windows will help to reduce drafts.

6. Air filters – Check the filters in your heating system. A clean filter will improve the efficiency in your unit and save you money. Changing them monthly will save you on energy usage.

7.       Remove obstructions – Make sure the area in front of any heating baseboard is clear. This will allow for the warm air to flow better.

8. Adjust Baseboard Fins and Registers – Ensure that the fins of all heating baseboard are in the open position. Partially open fins will restrict proper flow and cost you in the long run. Registers that provide warm air into the room can be adjusted for optimum air and direction. The damper adjustments are easily located on the face of the register

9. Exhaust Fans – Limit the use of exhaust fans and shut them immediately following the need to use them. Leaving them on will remove the heat from your home.

10. Look Up – Since hot air rises, weather-strip the area around the attic hatch and replace any insulation voids in your attic.

Checking and making these adjustments to your home will not only save you money on your heating bills, but will save you on service calls for your heater, as well.



Not everyone can afford the cost of a renovation or a new home, but you can do small inexpensive things to the interior and exterior of your home that will make a big difference. Making small investments in the upkeep of your residence not only improves its appearance, but also improves the overall appearance of your neighborhood. These minor tasks can be cost-efficient, simple and quick to do.

On the exterior of your home, power washing the siding or brick can dramatically improve the appearance. Painting the fence, planting some colorful flowers and mulching the trees in your yard can add curbside appeal. The first thing most people focus on when approaching your home is your front door. Painting or staining your door is a simple low-cost improvement that can highlight your entrance without the expense of replacement. Shutters are also a low ticket item, they can be purchased pre-painted, and are easy to install; changing the appearance and style of a plain looking facade and enhancing its charm considerably. If your entrance walkway is in disrepair you can install brick pavers for a warm but elegant, country look. There are many styles, colors and shapes.

The interior of your home may need a new coat of paint. You may want to consider some of the new color schemes available at your local paint or home improvement store. New carpet in the bedrooms or new rugs over a freshly scraped and polyurethaned hardwood floors in your living room and dining room can be a refreshing change. Upgrade the interior trim and add ornamental crossheads above the doorways. If you desire more light, have a larger window installed where you feel the interior can be enhanced by exterior views. Maybe it’s time for new kitchen appliances or modern bathroom fixtures. From new garage doors to installing new lighting fixtures, there are many things we can do to make our homes more appealing without spending tens of thousands of dollars.

Take a walk around your home and imagine what it would look like if you made a few minor changes. Just make yourself a list in the order you feel that repair or change is immediately needed. These projects don’t have to be completed all at once and can be spread over a five or ten year plan. They can be a lot of fun for you and your family and time together, well spent.

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